Monday, November 30, 2009

Desvendando os acabamentos das sombras MAC - by Paula F.

A Paula F. fez esse post para o fórum 2Beauty e me autorizou a publicá-lo aqui no blog tb.
Ela entende muito sobre as sombras MAC, então aproveitem o super post bem explicadinho! :)

Sombras MAC - Os Acabamentos


Uma das coisas que eu acho mais bacana na seleção de sombras da MAC são os acabamentos descritos. Você pode ver uma sombra de outra marca, achar a cor legal e se decepcionar na hora da aplicação, e com a MAC, acho que este acontecimento é mais raro. Com o nome do acabamento abaixo do nome da sombra no fundo do potinho, e conhecendo o que cada nome representa na prática, você sabe o que está comprando.

Claro, existem algumas controvérsias. A MAC por vezes lança uma sombra e coloca um acabamento que não corresponde muito ao que se conhece das outras sombras daquela família, mas a gente (eu, pelo menos ;) ) perdoa, né? O que eu vou expor é baseado na minha opinião e experiências com elas, e talvez seja diferente de uma descrição ou opinião que vocês possam achar por aí no mundo virtual...

Os acabamentos, por ordem alfabética:

FROST: frost em inglês é congelar, geada, e o aspecto do gelo é de brilho, certo? Então, as sombras Frost, são sombras com brilho, algumas com mais e algumas com menos brilho, depende da cor, e às vezes do lote. A cor deste brilho também pode variar (brilho dourado, prateado ou com alguma cor específica). Mesmo quem não gosta de muito brilho, dificilmente resiste à elas pois a seleção de cores é realmente de babar, e a aplicação de modo geral não decepciona, "what you see is what you get"...com algumas exceções (por exemplo a Paradisco, que é um pouco difícil).

Pra quem gosta de neutros... Patina, Bronze e Ricepaper são xodós. Satin Taupe é o xodó dos xodós!
Pra quem gosta de cores diferentes...Creme de Violet, Cranberry e Steamy são lindas!
Pra quem precisa de uma iluminadora bacana e coringa, Nylon.

Imagem Imagem Imagem Imagem

LUSTRE: vem de lustrous, lustroso, algo que reflete brilho. O significado disto para a MAC parece ser Glitter! Existem muitas "reclamações" sobre as lustres por conterem muito glitter, em partículas grandes em detrimento de cor. Eu acho que é por isso que a descrição do acabamento é super legal, se você prefere sombras mais fáceis de se aplicar e trabalhar, escolha outro acabamento. O propósito das Lustres é refletir brilho com bastante glitter e alguma cor. As mais escuras aparecem bem, enquanto que as mais claras não, mas o propósito é este, e eu acho incrível o efeito que se pode obter com elas. Tenho apenas 4 destas, mas são muito úteis e queridas.

Pra quem quer brilhar com um tom de marrom matador...Tempting
Pra quem quer brilhar com um verde/cinza sedutor...Greensmoke
Pra quem brilha e assume seu lado Barbie com um rosa glamouroso...Gleam (ótima como iluminador sobre o blush também)

Imagem Imagem Imagem

MATTE: sombras opacas, super pigmentadas e maravilhosas de se aplicar. As cores são fiéis ao que se vê e não há decepções. Provavelmente são as primeiras opções das brasileiras pois nossas marcas nacionais carecem de sombras com esse acabamento. E se você usar uma sombra com brilho em alguma parte do olho e "esfumar" para cima dela, ela vai ganhar parte deste brilho, seja perolado, metalizado, ou glitter. Bem versátil.

Quando se quer cores realmente únicas...Blackberry, Plumage, Passionate
Quando não se abre mão do básico...Bisque, Omega, Espresso
A versatilidade de um marrom quente...Swiss Chocolate
A versatilidade de um marrom frio (e taupe)...Charcoal Brown
O branco básico super pigmentado...Gesso
Quando se quer uma cor de transição pra esfumar ou "aquecer" o look...Soft Brown

Imagem Imagem Imagem Imagem

MATTE2: como o nome sugere, matte ao quadrado são sombras opacas e ultra pigmentadas, macias, fofas e queridas! A seleção de cores infelizmente é limitada, e algumas saíram de linha (luto eterno), e eu sempre fico na expectativa do retorno e de novos lançamentos.

Pra quem quer arrasar nas maquiagens conceito...Prussian, Poison Pen
Pra quem não tem medo de nada... Newly Minted, Clarity
Pra quem busca um básico cheio de modernidade... Flourishing, Copperplate
Pra quem curte cores tradicionais com um toque único...Brown Script, Fig. 1

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SATIN: satin é cetim, são sombras acetinadas, são sombras sem o brilho das frosts, mas que refletem um pouco de luz. Gostosas de aplicar, fáceis de esfumar e com uma seleção de cores maravilhosa. Na dúvida entre como usar os diferentes acabamentos, escolha uma Satin.

Se a escolha é discreta... Brule, Cork, Coquette.
Se a escolha é ousada... Parfait Amour, Juxt, Electric Eel.
Se a escolha é esfumar... Mystery, Print.
Se a escolha é iluminar... Mylar, Shroom.

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STARFLASH: são uma seleção limitada de sombras que apareceram em 2 coleções (Starflash e Love That Look). São bem metálicas sem o inconveniente das Veluxe Pearls em relação a rugas. A aparência é de uma sombras super-frost com a aplicação cremosa das veluxe pearls. As cores são incríveis, sempre com muito brilho prateado (ou dourado no caso das mais quentes como a Glamour Check).

Para as Taupe-maníacas: Smoke and Diamonds, Style Snob.
Para as Bronze-maníacas: Go, Glamour Check.
Para as Highlighter-maníacas: Dreammaker, Grand Entrace.

Imagem Imagem Imagem


VELUXE: "um veludo de luxo"? São sombras opacas, com pigmentos fininhos que resultam em uma aplicação super "macia" porém sem tanta cor aparente. São cores bacanas de transição e cores legais para aquela maquiagem nude com o propósito de ser nude, ou quando o que vai falar mais alto é um delineado arrasador. Muitas das cores foram descontinuadas, infelizmente. Hoje só constam no site Kid, Samoa Silk e Brown Down (e a Kid está no meio das Satins...). Ah, várias das cores "Pro" que são descritas como Matte, na verdade tem este acabamento (ex. Bottle Green, Indian Ink, Soot, Ground Brown...).

Se o propósito é ser nude... Kid, Llama
Se o propósito é ser fofa... Mink Pink, Samoa Silk (ótimos blushes!)
Se o propósito é ser misteriosa... Femme Noir

Imagem Imagem Imagem Imagem

VELUXE PEARL: o toque do veludo com o brilho perolado? Isto se sua pérola for metálica! Estas sombras são de fato mais metalizadas que peroladas em sua maioria, e aplicam como um sonho. Grudam na pele sem esforço, espalham mantendo a riqueza da cor e ao mesmo tempo aceitam o esfumado. São realmente as que mais chamam atenção na loja, pelas cores vibrantes e apelativas...porém, se a sua pálpebra não é a mesma de 10 anos atrás, esqueça, ou aplique um bom primer que evite que a textura destas sombras revele ruguinhas que você nem sabia que existiam! Outra opção é usar só no esfumado do côncavo pra cima. Algum jeito tem que haver, pois são cores irresistíveis!

Se você não resiste ao ouro... Gorgeous Gold, Dazzlelight, Woodwinked.
Se você não resiste a ser menininha... Beautiful Iris, Moon's Reflection, Stars and Rockets.
Se você não resiste a algo realmente único... Sumptuous Olive, Antiqued.

Imagem Imagem Imagem Imagem

VELVET: pesquisando na rede, você vai encontrar muitas resenhas negativas deste acabamento. Reclamações quanto à pigmentação e aplicação principalmente. A MAC descreve bem mas acho que as pessoas entendem mal a frase "soft look finish with high color intensity". Em um dos primeiros vídeos do Enkore, ele torce o nariz para as Velvets e diz que o "payoff" é ruim. Eu comprei o que ele disse até começar a usá-las. Hoje tenho quase todas da família. Voltamos no propósito de cada acabamento! O propósito das velvets é dar a aparência de Vapor (minha opinião)...é facilitar a vida de quem gosta do look esfumado, de quem precisa ir com calma e construir a intensidade da cor. Por isso quando vc passa o dedo em uma sombra velvet, não é como passar em uma matte ao quadrado. A cor é fraca, justamente para você trabalhar seu 224 e construir seu look (hello, Black Tied?). E você não vai se arrepender se tentar!

Se quer construir uma pálpebra iluminada e uma linha invisível entre o claro e escuro...Vanilla, Vapour.
Se quer construir um look de cor ousada e aparência discreta... Bitter, Juiced.
Se quer construir o esfumado perfeito tradicional... Black Tied, Smut, Mulch.
Se quer construir o esfumado perfeito com cor... Sketch, Contrast.

Imagem Imagem Imagem Imagem

PRO: a MAC tem uma linha de sombras "Pro", mas que são facilmente encontradas e não há muito mistério. As sombras Pro não contam com a descrição do acabamento, que pode variar de Matte a Matte ao quadrado, Veluxe e até Frost (a Rose é descrita como Matte no site, mas é Frost). Pelo menos entre as que eu conheço. O diferencial "Pro" está nas cores diferentonas e menos "democráticas". O acabamento não é superior às da linha normal, é igual e em alguns casos ate mais trabalhoso, pra construir a cor. Ou seja, para os "Pros" usarem, mas a gente também pode, não é!?

A cor que vira blush...Coral
A cor que vira amor...Vibrant Grape
A cor que vira coringa...Ground Brown
A cor que vira um arraso...Cobalt

Imagem Imagem Imagem Imagem

-------------------------------------------------------------------------

E é isso. Todos os acabamentos têm um objetivo, e o efeito final depende de como se usa. Eu acho que não adianta querer fazer um look neutro monocromático com uma Starflash e nem esperar uma super pigmentação de uma Velvet. Quebrar a cabeça escolhendo faz parte da diversão!

Que todas possam se divertir sempre!

Beijos,

Paula_F

56 comments:

  1. Que aula!!! Estou querendo montar uma paleta de sombras Mac, não preciso nem dizer que esse post me ajudou imensamente!

    ReplyDelete
  2. massa! tem no site da sacks que é onde revende tb a descrição, mas aqui ficou mais completo!

    ReplyDelete
  3. Esse eh o tipo de post pra imprimir e levar na bolsa, colar no espelho, no banheiro, no quarto; simplesmente maravilhoso, verdadeira aula!
    Me inspirou mto pra acabar de completar minha paleta e ja ir pensando na proxima.
    Muito Obrigada
    Camila Souza

    ReplyDelete
  4. Oi, gostaria de saber qual é essa sombra da foto lá no alto ,no canto superior direito...
    Obrigada.

    ReplyDelete
  5. Adorei esse post!
    Assim será bem mais fácil comprar sombas MAC!

    Bjksss

    http://beautyeumpoucomais.blogspot.com/

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  6. Amei esse post! Muito esclarecedor...
    Posso reproduzir?

    http://bugigangolandia.blogspot.com

    Beijinhos

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